When Bruce Brown introduced "Endless Summer" to
audiences in 1967, it was the most accurate depictions of
surfing ever captured on screen, showing the dedication and
love that people had for the sport. It followed two surfers
on their journey all around the world to find 'the perfect
wave'. In a sense, that is what "Riding Giants" is
about. With this film, surfing itself is the wave, and all
of the people involved are just looking for the biggest and
the best. "Riding Giants" is the most thorough and
accurate depiction of the history of surfing ever captured
on film, and it surpasses "Endless Summer" with
its complete and total commitment to the love of the sport,
at whatever the costs.
This film is about big wave riding, where 30-foot swells are
the usual size for the top riders. We see legends like Greg
Noll, who became a thing of myth when he rode what has been
called the largest wave ever rode in the history of surfing.
There were no cameras or footage of the ride, so it is
merely passed on by the surfers who witnessed it. We see
Jeff Clark, who rode an area in California known as The
Mavericks for 15-years before the rest of the world realized
it was one of the most incredible areas on the face of the
planet, and certainly one of the most dangerous. For
example, surfing legend Mark Foo finally hits the waves at
The Mavericks, and on his second ride, is sucked under and
killed, bringing a huge dose of reality to all the men who
surfed that area. We are finally introduced to Laird
Hamilton, possibly the greatest big wave rider of all-time,
who revolutionizes the sport with smaller boards, jet skis,
and by eventually completing the greatest ride in surfing
history.
In interviews from all of the men mentioned in the film, we
get a true sense of what it is like to be a surfer, and how
much courage and dedication they have to have in order to
risk their live with almost every attempt at a ride. How
many other sports hold such a potentially disastrous
outcome? The descriptions by some of the surfers in the film
of getting sucked under the water, beaten around, and then
reaching the surface just to get pummeled by another,
equally powerful wave, are fascinating and at the same time
quite horrifying. Imagine being in the blackness underwater
and feeling your body smash against something. At first you
think it is the surface or your board, until you realize you
have hit the bottom of the ocean. Now, that's intensity.
There is much attention paid to people like Mark Foo, who
lost their lives doing what they loved. We see all of the
shock and disappointment on the faces of the men when Foo is
killed, as their own mortality finally occurs to them.
Watching, I think that is what served as the huge difference
between the surfers of the 1960's and the surfers of today
-- mortality. Men like Greg Noll knew they could die with
each ride, but they also know if they were going to die,
there was no better way to go. Before Foo was killed, most
surfers had that idea in the back of their minds, but had
never explored it. The way in which director Stacy Peralta
explores this line between life and death is masterful and
mesmerizing on screen.
If "Endless Summer" was about the perfect wave,
"Riding Giants" is certainly about the biggest
wave. Where is the best place to surf -- California or
Hawaii? Who was the greatest big wave rider of all-time,
Greg Noll or Laird Hamilton? Noll would concede and say that
Hamilton is the best, but you also have to look at other
things. Noll did not have the advantage of such speedier
boards or leashes -- he went out, man and board, and rode
waves the size of which most men with the luxuries would
avoid. By the end of the film, I was convinced Noll was
certainly the greatest, even after the footage of Hamilton
riding the ride of a lifetime. Watch the film for yourself
and make your own decision.
"Riding Giants" is the greatest documentary about
surfing yet and it has a weight and power to it left out of
most documentaries about sports. We see the true love and
dedication for surfing unlike any other sport in the world.
It is not only a lifestyle, but a way of life for these
people and they love every second of it. I was captivated by
this film and would say it is one of the greatest
documentaries I have ever had the pleasure of viewing.
"Riding Giants" is a true devotion to surfing, to
the men who do it, and to those who have lost their lives
enjoying it. Give it a try. You won't be disappointed.